LED Fan Corn Light | 45W to 150W Selectable with Active Cooling

A fan inside the lamp

LED lamps fail from heat, and a corn lamp inside a sealed fixture has nowhere to shed it. A fan corn light puts a small cooling fan in the base, moving air across the heat sink so the lamp can run at higher output than a passive one of the same size.

That is the whole reason to choose one: it lets you get more light out of an enclosed housing that would otherwise cook a passive lamp.

When a fan version is the right call

The trade-off is honest

A fan is a moving part, and moving parts fail before solid-state ones do. In a dusty environment the fan clogs and the lamp then runs hotter than a passive one would have. Where airflow is already good, a passive lamp is the simpler choice and will outlast the fan version.

Specification

Selectable output on a retrofit

Useful because you rarely know the right level until the first lamp is in. The old fixture's reflector and lens have usually lost efficiency over the years, so calculating from the old wattage rarely lands right. Fit one, stand under it at night, and set the rest from what you see.

Mounting orientation

Fan versions generally want the base down so the fan draws clean air. Check the fixture's socket orientation before ordering, and use a horizontal lamp where the socket faces sideways.

Installation

The ballast has to be bypassed and the lamp wired direct. A licensed electrician should do the work, and no bypassed lamp should go into a fixture that still has a live ballast.

Related

For passive cooling see our standard corn lamps. For new fixtures instead of retrofit, see high bays.